Saturday 21 August 2010

I Hope This is The Injections

Wednesday 18th August 2010

I said I wouldn't but I forced myself to go out for a run afterall. I planned on doing 5 miles, however, I felt better today and paced myself, completed 7.35 miles averaging 9.15 minute miles, had a nice long shower then it hit, cold sweats, hot flushes, shakes, nausea. I'm not sure I felt this bad on summit day! It must be the injections for Africa, although its been nearly 1 week since I had them. Nothing I can do other than curl up and go to bed, hopefully will feel better in morning as we have an offsite company training day.

Oh yes also second round of injections coming tomorrow, great can't wait, numb arms again for 2 days!

Sent from my HTC

Relaxation Over

Wednesday 18th August 2010

Well its time to leave the Castle, only managed half hour on the step machine this morning. The weatherman was right yesterday it's grim, so we chilled in the morning while the boys played with George. He is leaving today much to the boys disappointment. George's parents, Paul and Ellen, have restored my faith in human nature, we only met them for a couple of days, but they generously made a donation to our charity cause. All I can say is thank you, to a really genuine and pleasant family, the type you would want to meet on holiday wherever you go.

Ah well time to tackle the M6, decided my next training run will be friday.

Sent from my HTC

Training in Cumbria

Monday 16th August 2010

I woke early again today still not able to lie in. The mattress is too soft and therefore is very uncomfortable for my sore back. It's 7am, foggy and cool. I plan to do 5 miles today down the lanes by the castle but by the time I am at the top of the drive I'm knackared, still if I turn left it's downhill. This downhill stretch lasts all of half a mile. I then turn left again. Big mistake, all up hill at a 40% angle, ouch, I keep this up for just over 2 miles then turn round and head back. Funnily enough this is the highest I have been since getting back from France 450m, the downhill back is nice.

By the time I get back to the castle the boys are awake, so quick shower and off to breakfast. I have one niggling concern playing on my mind - how much damage have I done to my lungs? As running 5 miles feels like a marathon!

Over breakfast we decide to drive to Ingleton and walk around the waterfall trail, its just over 5 miles so training again. However the kids have made friends a friendly chap named George who is far more appealing than a walk. Fortunately George is going out for the day also so they reluctantly come, pursuaded by the fact that they will meet again at high tea.

The day has turned out hot and the walk is excellent, not a straight or flat path, and yes I am wearing my mountain boots, overkill I know but if I am to wear them for Kilimanjaro then I need to start falling in love with them again.

Kian has done surprisingly well and kept a good steady pace, but has got a little tired, so change of training for me as I put him on my shoulders not good for my back and it takes me half a mile to pursuade him to walk again. The break didn't last long as within half a mile he has fallen flat on his face, so he's back on my shoulders, Rachel is not happy as its steep and narrow, but as I told her this is a doddle compared to Mont Blanc. She raises her eyebrows at me and carries on.

Overall not a bad day 10 miles covered and I don't feel too bad now. Well I lie a little as my back hurts like hell and I still haven't got my boots to fit properly.

Tomorrow has forecast rain, so have decided to give myself a day off.


Sent from my HTC

Monday 16 August 2010

New training venue

Sunday 15th August 2010

As a treat and to say well done, Rachel has booked us into Augill Castle in Cumbria for a relaxing break following the fantastic week in the Alps.

I will be checking out the grounds for places to run as there's no gym or pool but I have also brought the step machine in case of the weather and as I am not sure I want to attempt to run up some of the hills we passed on the way here!

Will update tomorrow on progress.



Sent from my HTC

Saturday 14 August 2010

Back to Training

Tuesday 10th August

Its been 4 days since i returned from France, my body has ached every minute of every day, the creature comforts we enjoy at home have made me realise how much my body has given and how tired it is.

I however force myself to get changed into my running gear, i tell myself i will take it easy 9 minute miles be consistent. Starting out felt ok, a little to ok 8 minutes for the first mile, the weird thing is I still can't feel some of my toes, which makes running feel particularly weird.

This is hard very hard, harder than before, mile 5 takes 10 minutes it is up hill, but i know something's wrong my breathing is to heavy, as soon as i reach home i am coughing and hacking just like i was back on the mountain.

Have i really lost so much fitness or is my body just telling me its had enough. Only 4 weeks to go before we depart for Africa, i need to ensure my fitness is retained, i will go out again on friday, i promise myself this, keep running through the pain barrier.

Sent from my HTC

Tuesday 10 August 2010

Reflection

Tuesday 10th August 2010

 

Its taken me several days to gather my thoughts of the events that occurred last Wednesday, and only now do I feel in a position to assess what happened.

 

It is unquestionable in my mind what Simon and I both achieved last Wednesday, was probably the single biggest achievement of our lives to date, I think Simon summed it up eloquently on an earlier blog, and that was that yes there are bigger mountains but at the moment this was our Everest.  We gave it everything we had partly because we wanted to succeed for the charities, but mainly because we are both determined individuals, the slight problem with this determination and indomitable spirit is that sometimes you end up in a situation that is beyond your control.   

 

The hard thing to explain to people and the one thing I underestimated was the effect the thin air would have, I had acclimatized well up to 3300 metres, so it was a massive shock when I got above 4000 metres on how the simple things you take for granted become intensely more difficult, eating and swallowing is nigh on impossible, you try to eat chocolate as you know you need energy but it just congeals in your mouth so you end up spitting it out, drinking is a necessity but while your trying to drink your not breathing which is also a necessity.  The only thing I was able to consume above 4000 metres was a can of coke, water from my camel pack and a high protein gel.  Its not until you get back that you realise further that your mind is processing at such a slower speed, why do I say this, well I have few but some amazing photographs at 4807 metres, what I can’t do is actually remember these pictures in my mind, and that’s because total concentration was on putting one foot in front of the other and breathing in between, there is little room to be able to do anything else, this happened again to me at the summit, I could not find my phone to call home, yet it was in my trouser pocket all the time, as I could not find the 3tc Charity Challenge banner, which again was in the top pocket of my rucksack, which I actually emptied out on the summit but still could not see it.

 

My descend from the summit was really where my battle against the mountain began, and I have reflected on this quite deeply, as initially I did not want or wish to climb another mountain again, the Acute Mountain Sickness hit me so fast and was rapidly turning into HAPE, I was therefore quite prepared to pull out of the next challenge of summiting Kilimanjaro, as this was probably the most terrifying thing that has happened to me and I could do nothing about it.  I have been constantly mulling over the facts of the events of that day.

 

At 6.15pm I arrived at the summit of Mont Blanc, some 4807 metres, at 7am that morning I was at 1,000 metres leaving my hotel in Chamonix for the cable car, after the cable car and train we were left at 2,000 metres, and set out to ascend on foot a further 2,807 metres and descend a further 1,700 metres to the Tet Rousse refuge, this is not the standard ascent route for a guided party on the mountain and our chances of success were less than 10%, the height gain on foot alone was some 1,100 metres more than a normal final ascent push, this was also compound by my wanting to try and catch Simon and Phillipe up so that we could summit together.   

 

In my conclusion, I ascended too high too fast in order to achieve my goal, and this affected my acclimatisation programme, and the consequences could have been more serious than what they were, yes a mountain can be climbed however the summit is only half the journey getting home safe is the most important factor, so I have concluded that my body should be capable of coping with the acclimatization required to summit Kilimanjaro, the question to answer is that if bad weather occurs again, would I try and do 2 days climb in 1 go? Its one I cannot really answer until the situation arises, this I’m afraid is the lure of the mountain.

 

I have also underestimated the recovery time required, as I need to start training but am still feeling the effects of the Altitude sickness and still cannot feel my toes.

 

1 Down 2 to Go.

 

David Todd

Chief Executive Officer

3tc Software Limited

 

Tel:- +44 (0)116 272 5276

Fax:- +44 (0)845 688 9951

e-mail :- david.todd@3tcsoftware.com

P please consider the environment - do you really need to print this email?

 

The views expressed in this e-mail are not necessarily the views of 3tc Software Limited.  Its directors, officers or employees make no representation or accept any liability for its accuracy or completeness unless expressly stated to the contrary.  This e-mail and any attachments are strictly confidential and intended for the addressee(s) only.  The content may also contain legal, professional or other privileged information.  Unless expressly stated to the contrary, no contracts may be concluded on behalf of 3tc Software by means of e-mail communication.  If this message has been sent to you in error, you may report the matter by calling us on +44(0)845 688 9950.  Please ensure you have adequate virus protection before you open or detach any documents from this transmission. 3tc Software does not accept any liability for viruses.  3tc Software is registered in England: Company number: 5063700  Registered Office: c/o McGrigors LLP, 5 Old Bailey, London, EC4M 7BA.

 

 

Saturday 7 August 2010

Home


Friday 6th August 2010

Arriving home from any trip is always special. I'm greeted by my family, hugs and kisses all round its great to see them all again. It's weird as what we achieved on Wednesday now seems such a long time ago. I can still feel the affects of the altitude sickness but being back with my family makes any discomfort disappear.

Rachel shows Simon and I the article in the Hinckley Times, front page wow fame at last, however their are a few things very wrong about the front page headline. The paper was printed on either Tuesday evening or Wednesday morning, Simon and I Summited late on Wednesday evening, and those of you that know me, would know that I would never use the word Conquered, you don't Conquer Mont Blanc it gives you a small window of opportunity to summit and you take it.

I wonder now what would the paper have done if we hadn't of both summitted. Indeed my own attempt was in doubt, also what if my Acute Mountain Sickness had turned into HAPE and things had got worse. The publicity is great for raising awareness for what we are doing, however it is clear the press will print what they like irrespective of the circumtances.



Sent from my HTC

Friday 6 August 2010

Coming Home

Friday 6th August 2010

Its 7am before I get out of bed and jump in the shower. I woke earlier than the alarm again today. about 6am, must be the early starts you get used to. There is one thing different about this morning, no climbing or trekking today! It feels good just to say that. As I'm getting ready I realise I have 3 blisters on my left hand and 5 on my right. I hadn't noticed them before. I still have no feeling as such in my big toes, I assume the nerve endings have been damaged from the constant battering they took on summit day. I also notice that I am still short of breath and a little light headed which hopefully will go away with a paracetamol and also my back hurts like never before. I'm assuming this is my body telling me its knackered, and I'm starting to wonder how long it will take to recover?

I am immensley proud of both mine and Simons achievement this last 6 days, but in particular summit day, where we were battling our own demons to ensure we gave it the best shot we had. On reflection and in discussion with Simon we agreed that not doing the last section together was the right thing to do and meant we both had a chance to get there. 2 knackered climbers trying to reach the summit when all we wanted to do was stop may have persuaded each other to stop, but we didn't. The fact that Simon summited 25 minutes before me does not matter, the challenge was to both summit and that is what we did. The scale of the achievement on Wednesday of this week is just starting to sink in. I'm looking out of the hotel window now listening to the rain and looking at the grey clouds over the mountain and just thinking how lucky we were as the weather window to summit has been closed now for 2 days.

I'm looking forward to coming home to my family and the creature comforts you get used to and take for granted. Not long now.

Thursday 5 August 2010

Summit Day

Wednesday 4th August 2010

The events of this day are to be quite incredible. There are still more details to think through and be more accurate on but below is an account of an extra ordinary day ...and one that I will never forget....

As you recall from my last blog the weather window had been shut, and sitting here on thursday back at the train station at 2000m the forecast was correct if we had set off as planned (i.e. to hike to the Refuge de Tete Rousse on the Wednesday, get some well earned rest and recharge our batteries for a few hours and then start the ascent to the Summit in the early hours of Thursday morning) we would not have made it. Philipe informed us that the only chance we had was to ascend and descend Mont Blanc in one go, meaning a total ascent of 2800m, walking and 3800m from where we were in the hotel in Chamonix that morning. A feat that should take us 18hrs and also a feat that is rarely attempted let alone accomplished. Philipe tells us the chances of succeeding were low, less than 10%, but we get our wish and attempt at the summit. this is all we wanted a chance......

We were introduced to 2 new guides, as principally the guides are only allowed to take 2 climbers up the mountain as its to dangerous in larger groups, Simon and I were allocated Valthoir (VAL) who has sumitted the mountain 9 times, Phillip and Elizabeth were allocated Phillipe are existing guide for the week, a 27 time summitter of Mont Blanc and Samera had Eric a 2 time summitter of the great mountain.

So at 8am. We commenced our climb. The hike from the valley up to the Gouter Hut at about 3800 meters was steep and treacherous and physically and mentally demanding and left my heart screaming to burst out of my chest. We reach the Tete Rousse Hut at 10.00 am, where we quickly put on our crampons and helmets and then came a grueling 2 hour rock climb 600m up the Gouter ridge to the gouter hut, traversing across the death coloir, effectively traversing across 100feet of near vertical rock as fast as you can avoiding the falling rocks from the glacier, we were informed after successfully traversing that their are 10 deaths a year here from people going to slow and getting hit in the head from falling rock, and it wasn't without inceident, I took a hit on the ancle, just as Simon nearly had his head took off by a rock the size of a small football.

I refused to look anywhere but where I placed my feet and concentrated hard on putting one foot in front of the other and not feeling the pain, which was extremely hard to do. I needed more oxygen, more time to catch my breath so I could carry on walking/climbing on the twisting ledges of the mountain. So this was what high altitude did to you. I didn’t know what I was expecting. I had read plenty of books and watched several documentaries re peoples experiences of high altitude climbs and knew what the signs and dangers were, but I don’t think you ever truly know until you have experienced it yourself. I never thought that I would go through such torture just to take a breath of air. My lungs and heart were telling me not to go on, that I couldn’t go on, but it my head I was telling myself that I CAN do this and somehow mustered the strength to carry on.

Sheer determination got me to the Gouter Refuge. A further 4hr climb to summit lay ahead. I had just ascended 1700m, which was our original planned ascension height of our original summit day on Thursday and now on Wednesdy afternoon at 1.30 pm I am sitting in the Gouter hut with a 1000m ascent still to go further into thin air. I put my head in my hands. I was exhausted and knew that this could be the end of my journey, but was finding it hard to accept that this might be the case. I had failed. I had failed myself, my family, Simon and the Charities.

I text Rachel, telling her I am exhausted and cannot feel my legs and ask her not to be mad at me if I fail. She texts backs telling me not to be stupid and that she is very proud of me and what I have accomplished and that I should be too. She told me to take a moment to gather my thoughts and focus on what I had come here to do and that she was behind me all the way whatever decision I made and that she believed in me. Kind words, that briefly comfort me, but can I really muster up the energy to carry on. At this precise moment in time I did not think I could.

I discuss with Simon and we agree he should go on with young Phillipe. I stay with our guide Val he's a great character and at 2am I decide to go on, as I feel a little better, about three quarters of an hour behind Simon. If I can get to the Dom Du Gouter at 4304m it will be an achievement. The snow slope climb is gruelling and zaps your energy, but I continue one step breathe, one step breathe, the air is thin and I have developed a hacking cough, but I keep going, its to difficult to eat anything and even drinking is difficult, food just conjeals in your mouth,so you end up spitting it out as you need to take your next breath. We reach the Dom Du Gouter in just over 2 hours. Val looks at me and says good time only 500m to summit, its still possible, so we go on.

In the distance I see Simon and Phillipe I think they are surprised to see me. They seem so close but these snow slopes are vast, they are about 200m ahead which is about 45 minutes walk. I start believing now that I can do this, but the pain from climbing the slopes are brutal you get over one to find a bigger steeper one, you also have to go down only to go up again. At 300m to go Val says we are at critical point he says we should turn back, but then he looked at the sky and says it looks like the mountain is being kind to you there are no snow clouds as predicted. We looked at each other, no words spoken just the glint of determination in our eyes and moved on. If She's opened the weather window then I am not going to pass on the opportunity. You see you can never just climb a mountain like this the mountain allows you to climb her and then perhaps let you summit.



The pain in my legs is excrutiating but I keep going. I can see the ridge and my god it is daunting... 5000ft drops either side, and the path is only 1ft wide, fall to the left your in France, fall to the right and your in Italy. I pass Simon and Phillipe, they have done it. I get great words of encouragement from Simon, this drives me on further, I can't describe what it means to see him, it seems so long since we were at the Gouter refuge, I am proud he has summitted but have no energy to say anything, I must have looked like a zombie, across the ridge 100feet, 50feet, 10feet, I'm there, at 6.15pm on Wednesday 4th August 2010, I reach the summit of Mont Blanc and achieve the first of the 3 challenges.



alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502678150942459314" />

I've done what I set out to achieve. I cannot believe I am here. The emotion is indescribable, the view is amazing, but its cold, very cold and high winds. I try and find the 3tc challenge banner, I can't find it, its there but I can't see it. I look for the phone again I can't find that either, I so wanted to and needed to phone Rachel and tell her I'd made it, but mostly just to hear her voice, especially as the last conversation we had was around me giving up. So a quick video diary, I have my families cards of good luck with me. This is a very special moment. I would have liked to have shared it with Simon,and although he was not physically their with me, I know he was, we have done this journey together and therefore it didn't matter that we arrived 20 minutes apart. In a way there is something very peaceful about being the last person to summit today with my guide and not a sole anywhere else. I had the whole summit to myself, Vals 10th summit my first very special indeed. I had a quiet word with dad about the weather window he'd arranged and the stamina I kept drawing upon. Back to reality its 1700m back to the Tete Russon Refuge (my bed for the night) and its late very late and I'm exhausted. It's 6.30pm I think, I know this is not a good time, the trek back is equally as hard, my legs are gone but my spirit is there, this will get me through, plus at 4800m no altitude sickness great news!

I can see the worry in Vals eyes and he can see that my tank is empty, but he knows my spirit will come through, he's learnt this on this very long day. All I hear from him is alley, alley alley, go, go, go. I am going as fast as I can, but i'm starting to feel frightened. The clouds have closed in, I'm at 4500m, and visibility is nearly zero I just follow Val's yellow jacket its all I can see and I can feel the cold now. Fear kicks me into another gear and I pick up the pace, Val is pleased by this. We finally arrive at the Gouter Refuge and I am shattered. I can't feel my fingers and can't get my crampons off, and I know the worse is to come the descent to the tete russo refuge my bed for the night is another 600m rock climb down the Gouter Ridge and its very late 8pm maybe. I walk into the hut and am greeted with a big hug from Simon, its a very emotional moment we have both achieved what we thought was impossible earlier in the day, I was so glad to see him, its been 9 hours since we last spoke at this refuge and the journey we both went on was amazing, I think we both shed a tear, the enormity of what we had achieved just taking over, Simon has been a great friend along this journey. Many times we both wanted to stop and turn round.

I force a coca cola down me and some chocolate. It is hard to swallow though. I feel drained, my thoughts turn to home and my wife and kids, this brings yet another tear to my eye. Everyone can see I have nothing left, and the beginning of a headache. I can't breathe and the hacking cough is getting worse. We need to go down and now. Getting down safely is always the hardest thing on a mountain like this. My rucksack is split between Simon and Phillipe. Helmets and headtorch on, shit crampons again, I can't so Simon does it for me. Climbing near vertical rock in crampons is hard work. I am roped to Val and go first within minutes it seems to be dark so headtorches on. It's hard finding the path but I keep going. After another 2 hours we are 300m down, but I can't go any further, I have been throwing up for the last 10 minutes and my headache feels like my head will explode. I try to breathe but can't get enough oxygen into my lungs. It's bloody cold. I sit down. I'm starting to get really scared now, I suspect I know what is happening, I had read about it enough times, but it shouldn't. How can it I'm descending?, I sit down, but start hacking immediately, the guides Phillipe and Val are conversing in French, they then listen to my back. I know exactly what they suspect, high altitude mountain sickness, a bad situation as this if not treated could turn into HAPE, as I still have another 300m to descend to the hut and its a near vertical descent, rock climbing down the Gouter Ridge, with the deadly traverse at the end, how can I make it? Philipe is now wrapped around me and young Phillipe is rubbing my legs, I can't stop shaking. I can't feel the cold in fact I feel warm very warm, so clearly I have hyperthermia it doesn't look good. Physically I made it, but this illness just crushes you in seconds. It's the scariest thing to have happened to me, and you genuinely want to drift off into a deep sleep and die. Phillipe and Val are on the phone to the doctor and mountain rescue, the helicopter won't come its to dangerous to winch from where we are. Simon is trying to warm me now with his body heat, I tell him I am a little scared now, he tells me don't worry everything will be fine and we will get down. The doctors advice was paracetamol and descend, they don't really understand where we are perched. I take the tablet. Val comes to speak to me and explains the situation, he's asked me to show him the spirit I'd shown earlier in the day to make the summit. All I can think of at this time is Rachel, Ethan and Kian. I need to be home with them. I promised them that I would. It can't end here surely. Val says to concentrate only on my family it will take my mind of the situation. This time Phillipe leads, this is better for me as before when I was leading I was looking around to find the path and this made me even more disorientated. I muster the energy and get to my feet. Every step hurts. My head wants to explode but I'm not going to give up, I can't give up. In total darkness it took 4.5 hours to descend the Gouter Ridge, it only took 2 to climb it. I spent the night in the oxygen chamber at the hut, which on reflection is the best nights kip i've had on this trip. We did the impossible. We ascended 3800m and descended 1700m in the same day. 16 hours trekking and climbing at altitude an incredible feat.

So was it worth it?, I'm not sure? The memories I have will last forever and I feel very privileged iged to have been to places not many humans generally go to. Phillipe our guide said to me this morning, he had never seen altitude sickness strike that fast. At no point in the trip was he worried about my acclimatisation, it was young Phillipe who was showing symptoms even at 2700m. I owe a great deal of debt and thanks to Simon, Philipe, Phillipe and Val, as without their support and encouragement I don't know what would have happened and It doesn't bare thinking about, when people support and believe in you it is possible to achieve nearly anything, this was proved on this extraordinary day for Simon and I, two men who decided we were going to make it and believed and achieved. I now just want to get home to Rachel, Ethan and Kian, and after reflection on this amazing experience and discussions with Rachel I will make a decision about attempting Kilimanjaro in 5 weeks time.

I am now lying in a hot bath which is heaven. I have no pictures on my phone of the summit but do have some incredible ones on my camera which I will upload on our return. I do however have the asscention certificate that says I climbed 4807m to reach the summit of Mont Blanc.

summit

Wednesday 4th August

Did I summit yes I did, did I do it with Simon no I Didn,t at the gutier hut, Simon and I agreed he would go on as I didn't think I could make it so he went with young Phillipe, and Fellipe guide, you only get 2 people to 1 guide because of the danger, I stayed behind with mine and Simon s original guide Val. After half hour I felt better so we headed out, I passed Simon on the ridge and summited half hour later than him with Val, what an amazing feeling, I will fill in the details later, as what occurred that day will stay with me for the rest of my life.

Wednesday 4 August 2010

Day 5 Preparation for trek to Tete Rousse Refuge

Wednesday 4th August 2010

Last night was the best nights sleep I have had since arriving. It's 7am and we're in the taxi on the way to the cable car and then the train to the base of our climb. The weather this morning is spectacularly beautiful. It is unfortunate, as had we had been at the refuge last night it would have been perfect weather for summiting. Fellipe is still the bearer of bad news and tells us that tomorrow is still forecast to be bad and it looks very unlikely that a summit attempt can be made. So we're still no nearer knowing, which is extremely frustrating, but if there is still that window of chance that we can summit we want to be in the right position to take it.

He has also said nothing about delaying a day either, but to be honest I am not sure how much more cheese I can take, its constant lunch and dinner, cheese, cheese, cheese.

I have a headache this morning, not through altitude though, I stupidly nearly knocked myself out whilst storing my bag in the luggage store. I hope it goes away as it is pounding at the moment! I again feel a strange mix of excitement and nerves. This is it our attempt. I try not to let myself ponder over the climb ahead and how the weather could thwart this. PMA, positive mental attitude or at least just don’t think about it! Denial is good! .......

Tuesday 3 August 2010

Day 4 Decision Arrives

Fellipe (the correct way of spelling our guides name) phones exactly on 5 as promised. I take the call, and there is an air of anticipation in our group, would it be good or bad news? Its bad news. He says the weather forecast currently would make a summit attempt on Thursday morning extremely low. The other option is to cross into Italy to attempt 4060m summit where the weather is slightly better. He says we need to consult the group and then call him back. I find it a little strange we are allowed to choose which option we prefer if in his professional opinion the weather will be too bad!

So I relay the conversation to all the group, but they had already seen the look of disappointment on my face and had guessed the outcome. We are all totally and utterly gutted. After several minutes we collectively decide we should make the trek to the Tete Rousse Refuge to give us a chance at the summit, particularly as the weather forecast has been wrong all week and the news from the uk is that the weather is reasonable. I have come here to climb Mont Blanc, this is what we have been training for, not climb another moutain in Italy (albeit their highest)! The thought of standing on top of Italy's tallest mountain looking across and seeing Mont Blanc bathed in sunshine is not what we came for and is not what we are going to do! It's Mont Blanc or nothing. If there is even the slightest chance that will be able to summit we HAVE to be in position to attempt it. Our decision has been made.....

I phone Fellipe back he seems shocked by our decision and a little bit narked, he then tells me there is a potential weather window friday morning. I asked him would it be possible to guide Simon and I on friday? Yes it means rearranging travel etc and would mean seeing Rachel and the boys a day later but it would be worth it. Fellipe says it may be possible. I'm excited again, but have forgot 1 major thing - I need to check with Rachel that she won't mind. I figure better 1 extra day than another week another time. I get the all clear from Rachel, she agrees that if there is a slight chance the we can summit on Friday to do it I just need to work the logistics out. Not sure how we will arrange this as won't know if we can push for summit until wednesday evening around 7,s and then there is no guaranteed phone signal!

Time for bed. Simon is already asleep. Lets hope the weather changes in our favour.....

Day 4 Oh my god

This sounds really pathetic, but I have just had the best shower of my life! After 3 days in the same clothes (and yes you can smell me coming!) I cannot describe how good that felt! s

Day 4 Final Training Day

Tuesday 3rd August 2010

Another early start today 5am breakfast leave at 5.30am we have about 9 kilometres of trekking to do today. Phillipe says the weather will be good but cold, and not so good down in the valley. He's right its bloody cold and we walk into thick cloud, but I'm feeling warm as I am testing the new down jacket. However, 20 minutes into the trek we are hit by a whiteout. No time to change just head down and follow the rope. I have Simon behind me and young Phillipe in front but I cannot see our guide Phillipe. It doesnt bait for 3 hours, apart from changing to freezing rain, then back to snow. It just keeps coming and this makes walking hard and slow. We are at least faster than yesterday, or so we thought, but within half an hour everyone from the refuge has overtook us and are out of sight.

We cross the col between France and Switzerland. We have been trekking for what seems like hours but I couldn't tell you exactly as there is no way I am removing my gloves to look at my watch. It is the coldest I have felt,as temperatures are freezing. We stop to make the ropes smaller and descend another snow slope into thick cloud again, the weather then clears a little enough for me to swap into full waterproofs, I am now worried my down jacket won't dry for summit day. Miraculously the further we descend the better the weather gets. Phillipe lets Simon lead us down the glacier which he relishes. Its a good change of position as we have both been at the back of our rope chain. Thankfully, Simon gets his head down and picks up the pace and we get to the Albert Refuge at around 11am. A quick lunch, then we descend down into the valley back to sunshine in Chamoinix. This was our acclimatisation complete. Tomorrow our Mont Blanc summit adventure will hopefully begin.

Our excitement is however short lived as more bad news at lunch. The weather forecast for Thursday is not good at all. If it does not change then the summit attempt on Mont Blanc will NOT take place! Instead we will have the opportunity to climb a 4000m peak in Italy! I can't describe how I am feeling right now, apart from utter disappointment. I have had all the wind knocked out of my sails. Having spent 2 uncomfortable nights at 2700m and 3170m respectively, I am totally gutted about this prospect. This cannot be happening. I didn't come here to climb in Italy. What about the challenge? Does it still count if we cannot summit? Its a sombre mood down in the valley.

Phillipe says he will call me at 5 with a decision (fingers crossed). Simon and I need to do this....... Dad if you are up there, I really need you to work some magic........

Day 3 - I was wrong about the chicken.

Dinner tonight consisted of vegetable/celery soup, no vegetables or celery could be found! Macaroni which I dislike but you need to eat, served with pork and carrots with 2 rings of pineapple for dessert. Phillipe had gone to bed earlier as he had a migraine but with a coke and some warm food he gained some colour and joined in the conversation the group is really bonding now, its another long day tomorrow as we descend all the way back down to Chamonix however if the weather good we have asked for a detour, I'll let you know tomorrow evening. Next is really bad news the Swiss weather forecast is not good for next 3 days making a summit attempt unlikely. This is devastating, as I really feel I can do this, My fitness has surprised even me, particularly after the last few weeks illness. Phillipe our guide says don't worry its only the Swiss forecast, its not very accurate! However the news is circulating fast around the refuge, all we can do is wait.......and pray that Mother Nature takes pity on us!

Its stopped raining so I get the boots on once more to hike about 50m straight up as its the only place you get a signal hence the delay in the blog, I get to speak to Rachel and the boys, which is great a real lift they are being very supportive and I love them dearly.

Lights out 3 nights to go!

Monday 2 August 2010

Day 2 Dinner and Accommodation

We sat down for dinner at just after 6 no menu you get whats served (I don't know why I sound surprised at this I wasn't exactly expecting waiter service!) we think it was some sort of meat broth albeit lacking any meat. Main course was rice and chicken with stewed vegetables again they were noticeable by their absence, and finally pudding peach tartlet which was nice. We went outside to sit on the terrace lasted 5 minutes the storm clouds have rolled in and it started hailing so basically everyone in and ensure bag is ready for the morning. More bad news Phillipe returns to our dorm with the weather forecast its not good, terential rain and cold winds, such a contrast to today. Phillipe recommends instead of starting at 6 we start at 4am it will give us chance to beat the rain to the next hut, we all agree thats a good idea, so extra early to bed for us. This has a plus side it means the united bathroom with ice cold running water will be empty, I seize the opportunity and do the usual teeth etc, then theres the toilet, mmmmm very interesting indeed as you can see that a number 2 here requires expert balance poise and a lot of effort and determination! The problem is with only 3 toilets for 72 guests last chance dashes don't guarantee a vacant cubicle. Have not mastered this art form yet and probably not likely to! The other plus is we will be first to the boot room so little chance of our boots disappearing mistakenly onto someone elses feet. Right, need to try and get some sleep stripped down to boxes as figuring with 24 people in here its going to be warm, the duvet is nice and thick anyway, p.s. My back is still aching but maxed out on pain killers today. No signal due to storm so hopefully this will be on in the morning. I am knackered but have thoroughly enjoyed today and can't wait for tomorrow to come.........

day 3 Early Start

as

Monday 2nd August

Not a great nights sleep in the refuge as a storm blew for quite a while. When I last looked at my watch it was 12.30 you don't really sleep just drift in and out. Woke again at 3.30am as Phillipe was collecting us at 4 didn't go back to sleep, breakfast was dry cereal, an orange, slice of bread and butter and a cup of tea. By the time we have our gear on its 5am but still dark and spitting with rain, we should arrive at the next hut in 3 hours, but its a slow start we are the first group to leave the refuge but by the time we reach the snow field we have been passed by 3 groups. Time to put the crampons on and rope up and slowly tackle this massive snow field, its light now so the headlamps can come off. Its becoming very apparent that Samara is struggling, it's one step, two step rest, initial thoughts are if she manages to summit Mont Blanc it will take a lot of courage and determination. It takes us nearly 5 hours to reach switzerland it should have taken 2 the rest of the party are getting a little agitated the slow pace is akin to an 8000 metre summit attempt. To take my mind off things I call Rachel as not sure how much signal we will get at 3300m, I wake her up with my call, its good to hear her voice, unfortunately boys not up then I lose signal. 4km to the swiss hut at this rate it will take another 2 hours. The worry is, does walking this slow help us or will it work against us on wednesday when we ascend fast to the gutier hut before the early morning push? I still feel strong and am recovering fast from any exertions, however the first sign of altitude sickness hits us, young Phillipes nose just starts bleeding, he's ok but this shows just how fast it happens. We finally reach the hut, Phillipe, Simon and I have been messing around bit to take away the boredom of this pace, we have been in crampons all day. At the base of the hut there is a 50 metre rock fall that we have to scramble up although we are last on it being at the back we race up to the top, we arrive nearly 30minutes before Samara. The swiss hut is luxury compared to the Albert Hut, proper toilets, just need to force myself to go! We arrived at 11am taking us 6 hours, twice as long as it should have took. We feel frustrated! lunch now then some more training this afternoon, you get the feeling our guide started us early as he knew how long it would take Samara to get here, the worrying thing is it makes tomorrow a very long day and we need to rest for thursday and friday.

Day 3 Rock Climbing

Phillipe our guide knew how disappointed we were this morning and he was as frustrated as we were with the extremely slow pace earlier, so he agreed to take us climbing on the rock face behind. Its only another 100m higher than the hut but more challenging than the router ridge in the push for the summit of mont blanc. Samara won't be joining us she is resting. The climb is just what we needed, challenging and fun. We reach the summit in about 20 minutes unfortunately the pictures are on the video cam as weather was to bad to take the phone out. On the way down we were allowed to taboggan on our backsides down a snowslope we covered 50 metres in about 5 seconds. What an adrenalin rush that was! Again, unfortunately, the bloody video did not work as I was flying down the slope! Absolutely Amazing afternoon!!! Simon and I are really getting on well with young Phillipe who has a headache and another nose bleed, we reached 3300m today the summit is 4800 Phillipe is starting to question his ability to get there. He needs a good day tomorrow it should be ok as we are going back down. Simon and I feel strong, our guide Phillipe has just said to me and Simon that we're ready and have all the skills and strength we need to summit, he said its all down to mother nature now! Our summit attempt is 1500m ascent on friday due to logistics an extra 500m than planned but Phillipe said no problem in the way only a frenchman can say. The bad news is for Samara, she has been told she doesnt have the fitness to attempt the summit.

The summit we did today was 3269 Pointe d'orny.

I am now waiting for the hailstorm to pass so I can call Rachel and the boys, but it looks set in.

It looks and smells like chicken again tonight. The facilities here are so much better than the Albert Hut.

Sunday 1 August 2010

more for my boys

Outside the hut after dinner.

one for my boys

to Ethan and Kian I miss you both be good I love you hopefully speak tomorrow.

Day 2 - Introduction to mountaineering!

Sunday 1st August 2010

We started out at 8am. Took a taxi to the next village and then the cable car to a height of 1700 metres. The climb then began a total height gain of 750 metres, its also very hot so within 10 minutes of walking the mountain trousers were rolled up to the knee. About half hour later its too hot so on with the sun hat. That's better and its only 9.30am! The path meanders up the mountain surrounded by the most spectacular, breathtaking scenery. A couple of stops, a phone call home and 3 hours later we reach the Albert Premier Refuge. The refuge sleeps 24, has one window and is about 18ft square, we are going to be very cosy!. We wait a further 30 minutes for samara to join us I think she has found this hard. I am pleased with myself and my fitness I have recovered fast my biggest problem is my back every step is like having a knife driven into my spine.

Lunch is taken overlooking the Tour Glacier, it really is breathtaking and I feel privileged to part of this magical place. We we will be training on this later this afternoon. Lunch is traditional ham and cheese. We have each been given a huge baguette for the next 3 days so I assume it will be stale on day 3. Simon is carrying group rations for tomorrow and I have day 3, typical more extra weight.

After lunch we get the whole climbing gear on helmet, crampons, harness etc, only there's a problem Simon and I have the crampons for the vegas boots (the boots were bought previously and left behind) they are not suitable for the mantas but luckily we swap with Elizabeth and Samara their rented boots will take them.

We crossed a snow bridge masking the deep crevass below, Phillipe prodding the snow carefully to find us a safe route through, we looked down into the depths of another huge crevass which was amazing, the colours of the ice changing from pale blue to deep blue the deeper the crevass went. The crampons and ice axe didn't take too long to get used to I feel like a mountaineer! Although saying that I have managed to slip down some ice and pierce my rather expensive mountain trousers which now have a hole in, oh well it was bound to happen! The pace is slow and the altitude is not affecting us too much at the momnent and after 4 further hours Phillipe is happy that the group is competant so we return to the refuge, and get familiarised with our beds for the evening.

The hut is full and is dorm style, bunkbeds although they are all connected together, 12 on each side. I am on top bunk with Simon and phillipe.

Day 2 Training

Day 2 begins! Had a reasonable nights sleep although stomach has been churning off and on all night not sure whether the result of the food I ate last night or anticipation of the days ahead, think the latter. Its 6.30am we're both awake. Simon just jumped in shower, I've just managed to do a quick video diary and then also had a shower after all will not get this luxury for 3 more days, I hoped the warm water would ease my back pain as its got worse over night but it doesn't, so resort to 400mg of Ibuprofen! I think that Ibu will become my new friend for this journey unless my back dramatically improves. We meet Phillipe and Elizabeth for breakfast. Simon and I are not hungry, but know we need to eat something so force a couple of pain au chocolats down us. All to soon its nearly 8 have we packed the right things? Too late now we're in the mini bus heading for our first days trek/climb, it is sunny but cool. Just going to text rachel and the boys, not sure if I will get to speak with them today.

There is an air of excitement...... let the training begin!